Margrain River's Edge Pinot Noir 2020

Amongst Pinot producers, there is an old adage, often discussed late into the evening: “Barrel aging maketh the wine”. The micro-oxygenation which occurs very slowly through the inch-thick oak staves mellows the wine and can turn unruly or even stroppy and aggressive tannins into a silky and seductive texture which rounds out and gently supports the fruit. Even older barrels have this amazing effect so to complete its upbringing, the wine spent 12 months in new and recent-vintage barriques, then a second year in much older and therefore softer wood.

You will fall prey to this wine from the first furtive glance. A teasing vibrancy at the edge leads to a warm glow toward the centre of the glass. Hello Ruby Tuesday. Crackling bracken fern and toasted nori rise from the glass and nudge suggestively at the nasal receptors then make way for well-seasoned split acacia, roasted beetroot and freshly uprooted truffle. Warm poached plum, tay berries and dark chocolate gateaux with coffee buttercream icing form a warm welcome as do notes of rich beef consommé, sweet violets and a dash of spicy tomato.

The palate stands like a beacon of hope in the garden of a stately manor. A classic razor strop and cigar box complexity is omnipresent as it glides back and forth amongst oven baked wild oats, dark sticky prunes and sun-dried beef jerky. The tannins, which sit somewhere between rhubarb crumble and central plateau pumice, lightly flagellate the tongue while a tiny streak of acidity adds freshness and focus, like the resounding rap of a gravel on the bench of a high court judge. There follows the suggestion of marmite on sourdough toast, soft roasted aubergine, rubbed oregano and warm caramel brûlée. A sense of calm, like still waters, runs deep in the finish.

Technical Information

Harvest date:               18 Mar - 3 April 2020             Residual Sugar:           Nil

Brix at Harvest:           22.3– 24.0                               Bottling Date:             3 Mar 2022

Final Alcohol:             12.9%                                      Release Date:              1 Feb 2023

pH:                              3.53                                         Cellaring:                     2 to 7 years

Total Acidity:             5.70g/l

Bob Campbell says "Bright, fresh high-energy pinot noir with raspberry, cherry, red-fleshed plum, dried herb and cedar flavours with oyster shell characters. Good food wine. Offers good value at this price. "